Dear Lennard,
I am a 15-year user of Speedplay X-series pedals. I purchased my first pair in 1995, never, ever greased them, and finally replaced them in the summer of 2006 when the bearing in the right pedal seized up on the way up to Ward, Colorado. Suffice it to say, I’m pleased with their durability as well as their function. However, I seem to go through cleats rather quickly. I ride about 4000 to 5000 miles per year and will break two sets per year. Okay, maybe one side twice and the other side once, or something like that. It’s always the same point of failure; the rear clip wire breaks. I started lubing them a few years ago with grease and/or Pro Link chain lube to no avail. I called Excel and they had no answers but did say that switching to the ‘Zero’ model would not help (plus I don’t need any additional float anyway).

What might I be doing wrong? What advice would you give? I’ll continue to pony up for the cleats because I like the pedals that much, but wanted to see if the Zinn Master had any magic bullets.
Ed

Answer from Speedplay:

Cleat springs should never break. This will occur only if the cleat spring is prevented from opening and closing properly. There are three possible causes for this.

First, all Speedplay pedal users should make sure that the cleats are installed properly each time. Most important is that the eight cleat-fastening screws should not be over-tightened. Too much tightening torque will bind the cleat springs and prevent them from working properly. Installation instructions are included with all Speedplay pedal systems and cleat sets. This information is also available on the Speedplay web site. Consumers are welcome to call Speedplay's technical support for additional assistance at 1-800-468-6694. If the cleat springs open and close freely, this is not the cause. (As a side note, the Zero springs are less susceptible to over-tightening and considerably more durable than the springs in the X Series cleats. Ed is welcome to call Speedplay for a more in-depth explanation about the differences.)

Second, the cleats must be lubricated regularly with a dry-type lube that contains Teflon or PTFE. If the cleats are not lubricated adequately, the springs will not open and close properly. Oil, WD-40, or wet chain lubes should never be used as they attract dirt and debris. (Pro Gold is the only exception because it does not attract dirt.) A complete list of recommended lubes is included with all pedal systems and cleat sets, and can also be found at www.Speedplay.com.

Third, the cleats must be kept free of dirt, mud and debris. If the cleat springs are jammed, the springs cannot operate properly. You can rinse the cleats with water to clear the contamination. Be sure to lubricate after cleaning. If a cyclist intends to walk in their cycling shoes, I highly recommend the use of Speedplay Coffee Shop Caps that will protect the cleats from contamination. Speedplay cleats, like any technical product, require care and maintenance to deliver optimal performance. Taking these simple steps will provide miles and miles of riding enjoyment.
Richard Bryne
Speedplay founder and president

Shifter cable for brakes?
Dear Lennard,
A Dura-Ace shifter cable is slightly narrower than a typical brake cable. On a triathlon bike that uses bar end shifters and brake levers in the basebar, can a shifter cable be used in place of a rear brake cable to decrease friction through the housing? Or is it too weak to hold up to braking forces?
Mark

Dear Mark,
I don’t think it’s a good idea, unless you’re testing it either on somebody who is very light in weight, or somebody whom you don’t like.

According to Ric Hjertberg, soon to be former employee of FSA, writes: “JIS says the gear cable should support 100 kgf and brake 150 kgf (when pulled from the lug).

“So, by those numbers, a gear wire would have no problem doing brake chores. However, that's not useful because gear cable makers value longevity and linear stiffness more than strength, which stacks the deck against using gear wires for braking.

“FSA makes a cable set for Vision aero levers that's got a gear wire lug but a brake cable diameter. While we've all seen compromised arrangements like a brake connected to a bar end shifter, the best policy is full function.”

And Wayne Stetina from Shimano says, “Seems to me the greatest difference might be the strength of the cable end caps? As you know, if that fails, it’s total brake failure during maximum application of brake force.”

And Shimano’s Devin Walton writes, “The bottom line answer would be no. The reason is that the testing for the two applications is different and the cable heads are different. I think it would be irresponsible to allude to any tensile strength differences as that might indicate that there would be an appropriate substitution if they were similar. The best ways to avoid friction are to keep a clean cable and avoid sharp bends in the housing. Also, not all housing are created equal as far as the materials that they are lined with.”
Lennard

Re: scratched cranks
Dear Lennard,
I read your column on polishing anodized cranks this morning, and it brought up another question. I got a new CX bike this fall, with SRAM Force components. In the heat of battle, I've managed to kick off the top layer of material on the right crankarm with my cleat in some places. I'm not worried about polishing it; I'm concerned with how much damage I may have done to the structure of the crankarm. Any insight on this?
Rich

Dear Rich,
Well, I would guess that you just chipped off the clear coat. If you don't have torn fiber ends sticking up, I wouldn't worry about it.
Lennard

Dear Lennard,
Now that you’ve explained how to remove scratches from aluminum parts, could you please give me some tips for dealing with scratches on carbon parts?
Darrell

Dear Darrell,
Scratches are not in the carbon, they are in the clear coat covering the carbon fabric. It’s the same as a scratch in a painted bike or car. You can use rubbing compound, available at automotive paint supply places, to rub out the scratches. Turtle Wax or other car wax with abrasive content will take out small scratches.
Lennard

Dear Lennard,
I read your response regarding the use of steel wool to clean scratches from aluminum crank arms, and I feel the reader has done damage to his crankarms. The readers' concern was potential damage to his crankset from his actions taken with steel wool. One major problem created by introducing steel wool to aluminum is "dissimilar metal corrosion" or galvanic action between dissimilar metals; this case aluminum and steel wool.

In aviation (my profession), it is forbidden to use any steel tool i.e. wire brush, steel wool, etc. to remove corrosion from aluminum. The fear is tiny steel particles becoming embedded in the aluminum and result in a process in which ions move from metal to another. When those ions move, the metal losing ions, aluminum, decays. The end result is the metal breaks down in the form of corrosion, and structural integrity of the crankarm is compromised. To kick off the process just add moisture. To really accelerate the process, add salty moisture; sweat will do the trick.

I would agree where the shoe rubs on the cranks the metal will always be shiny and free of corrosion or other protective barrier. However, where there will be no contact, corrosion will form. If using an abrasive pad stick with Scotch-Brite; white or blue will work on a bike red is almost too coarse. Or, one could use aluminum oxide based sandpaper or emery cloth.
Dawn